Yves Saint Laurent’s 1966 Le Smoking tuxedo is one of the most influential fashion pieces in history, symbolizing empowerment and revolution. Now, the legendary jacket has been meticulously recreated for Paolo Sorrentino’s latest film, Parthenope — a visually stunning journey through time, love, and identity.
The film, set in Naples, follows the life of its titular character, played by Celeste Dalla Porta, as she transitions from youth to middle age. Costume designer Carlo Poggioli, tasked with capturing Parthenope’s evolution through fashion, revealed that Sorrentino had a distinct vision for how the character should appear on screen.
The Role of Saint Laurent in Parthenope
While Poggioli created many of the film’s costumes, Sorrentino specifically sought out Saint Laurent’s creative director, Anthony Vaccarello, to bring authenticity and elegance to the character’s wardrobe. "I wanted the film’s fashion to have a timeless quality to it, but be plausible both for the period and the story we are telling," Sorrentino explained.
According to Poggioli, Vaccarello played a key role in crafting a wardrobe that seamlessly fit into Parthenope’s world. "The collaboration was amazing. We talked about the colors and shape," he said.
The Tuxedo Jacket as a Symbol
One of the film’s most significant fashion moments occurs when Parthenope, now in her thirties, dons the Le Smoking tuxedo. The jacket serves as a visual metaphor for her newfound independence and self-awareness, encapsulating her strength and personal transformation.
Unlike some productions that use archival pieces, Saint Laurent custom-made every costume for Parthenope. "We didn’t use any archive pieces. … Everything was made," Poggioli confirmed. This included the tuxedo, which was crafted using period-accurate fabrics and tailor-made by Saint Laurent’s artisans.
A Wardrobe Beyond the Tuxedo
Saint Laurent’s contribution extended beyond the tuxedo jacket. Vaccarello and his team also recreated:
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A jewel-encrusted ivory gown
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A black satin evening dress
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A gold lamé cape with a matching gown
Each of these pieces adds depth to Parthenope’s wardrobe, visually narrating her journey through different stages of life. All fittings took place in Paris before the meticulously crafted costumes were flown to Naples for filming.
A Cinematic and Fashion Triumph
By collaborating with Saint Laurent, Parthenope merges fashion history with storytelling, proving once again that great cinema is as much about aesthetics as it is about narrative. As Sorrentino’s film prepares to debut, the rebirth of Le Smoking in this modern context reminds us of the power of clothing to define and reflect identity.
